Monday, July 22, 2013
July 19-23
Finisterre 3.5km
Arrived by bus July 19th. We decided not to walk here as our goal was Santiago de Compostela, and we wanted to end our visit with an actual vacation. We did however make the final pilgrimage from the pueblo of Finisterre to the very end of the earth, 3.5 km. The path ends at the altar to the sun, Ara Solis, from the ancient time when the people here worshiped the sun. Today there is a scenic park and a lighthouse on the site. More about that in a minute.
Upon arrival in Finisterre we were met at the bus by rental agents looking to book you in an albergue, etc. We asked one woman to see what she had available and as we walked and talked with her we discovered that she could rent us a private apartment overlooking the harbor. Seemed too good to be true. We were a little nervous going off with her, but as always, the camino provided. We have an incredible private apartment overlooking the harbor and the Atlantic Ocean. The apartment itself is beautiful and has all of the amenities. Both the great room and our bedroom open onto the harborview. Mike has been able to study the port and the fishing industry. This is one of the world´s leading harbors for catching octopus. No deep water swimming for me!!, but I will be eating some of the local specialty. They catch a wide variety of fish and seafood, but are famous for the octopus industry.
Two doors down from our apartment is a bakery, so each day we get fresh bakery to go with our cafe con leche. Two doors more and we´re at the supermarket, so we can make our own meals. Last night we made a pasta marinara with squid and shrimp.
We have taken several walks, but nothing like 30k/day. We´ve been to the local beaches, and enjoyed watching the local, pilgrim, and tourist life out our front windows.
The night of the 20th we made our final pilgrimage to the lighthouse and got our final pilgrim´s stamp. It is the tradition to watch the sun set there, at the end of the earth, and then to have a bonfire to burn your final intentions and any articles you wish to burn. It´s a fun tradition.
We hiked around on the point and then picked the perfect spot from which to watch the sun set. We enjoyed a picnic of bread, cheese, fruit, and wine. The sunset was very pretty, but not spectacular, as it was somewhat obscured right at the end by clouds. The sun set at 10:20 p.m. We burned our socks!!!! and then hiked 3.5k in the dark back to our apt. We had a glass of wine as we watched the port life out our window. You know it was only midnight on a Saturday, so for the spaniards the night was just beginning.
Being an actual fishing port there is a huge fish market here where the boats unload. Each weekday afternoon they have an auction (like at the county fair) where vendors, restauratures, and other professionals bid on the lots of fish. We can buy a ticket for 1 euro to go in and watch. So, of course, we´re going. I´m sure it will SMELL great!
Tomorrow is our birthdays and anniversary and we are headed back to Santiago where we plan to see if we can catch the pilgrim´s mass with the botafumeiro, (the humongous swinging incense burner- like the thing ways a ton or something, and was originally used to try and wipe out the smell of the pilgrims), go to the open-air market again and order fresh seafood to have cooked for us at the cafe. We really liked that experience and have plans to try some different seafood there. We also plan to take the rooftop tour of the cathedral. It is supposed to be spectacular. We´d also like to go back to the parador and relax in the lap of luxury while sipping a little something. So that´s the plan for our big day. We´ll see how it goes. As they say in Costa Rica, "Pura Vida" - It´s all good.
The next morning we head to Madrid. There we hope to see Picasso´s "Guernica", go to La Casa de los Champiñones for handmade sangria and specialty mushrooms, do a little shopping, and some people watching on the Plaza Mayor and the Puerta del Sol. Our hotel is in that neighborhood.
The very early morn of the 26th we head to Madrid´s Barajas Airport and home to the ones we love.
God´s blessings to all, and forever and always, Buen Camino.
Finisterre 3.5km
Arrived by bus July 19th. We decided not to walk here as our goal was Santiago de Compostela, and we wanted to end our visit with an actual vacation. We did however make the final pilgrimage from the pueblo of Finisterre to the very end of the earth, 3.5 km. The path ends at the altar to the sun, Ara Solis, from the ancient time when the people here worshiped the sun. Today there is a scenic park and a lighthouse on the site. More about that in a minute.
Upon arrival in Finisterre we were met at the bus by rental agents looking to book you in an albergue, etc. We asked one woman to see what she had available and as we walked and talked with her we discovered that she could rent us a private apartment overlooking the harbor. Seemed too good to be true. We were a little nervous going off with her, but as always, the camino provided. We have an incredible private apartment overlooking the harbor and the Atlantic Ocean. The apartment itself is beautiful and has all of the amenities. Both the great room and our bedroom open onto the harborview. Mike has been able to study the port and the fishing industry. This is one of the world´s leading harbors for catching octopus. No deep water swimming for me!!, but I will be eating some of the local specialty. They catch a wide variety of fish and seafood, but are famous for the octopus industry.
Two doors down from our apartment is a bakery, so each day we get fresh bakery to go with our cafe con leche. Two doors more and we´re at the supermarket, so we can make our own meals. Last night we made a pasta marinara with squid and shrimp.
We have taken several walks, but nothing like 30k/day. We´ve been to the local beaches, and enjoyed watching the local, pilgrim, and tourist life out our front windows.
The night of the 20th we made our final pilgrimage to the lighthouse and got our final pilgrim´s stamp. It is the tradition to watch the sun set there, at the end of the earth, and then to have a bonfire to burn your final intentions and any articles you wish to burn. It´s a fun tradition.
We hiked around on the point and then picked the perfect spot from which to watch the sun set. We enjoyed a picnic of bread, cheese, fruit, and wine. The sunset was very pretty, but not spectacular, as it was somewhat obscured right at the end by clouds. The sun set at 10:20 p.m. We burned our socks!!!! and then hiked 3.5k in the dark back to our apt. We had a glass of wine as we watched the port life out our window. You know it was only midnight on a Saturday, so for the spaniards the night was just beginning.
Being an actual fishing port there is a huge fish market here where the boats unload. Each weekday afternoon they have an auction (like at the county fair) where vendors, restauratures, and other professionals bid on the lots of fish. We can buy a ticket for 1 euro to go in and watch. So, of course, we´re going. I´m sure it will SMELL great!
Tomorrow is our birthdays and anniversary and we are headed back to Santiago where we plan to see if we can catch the pilgrim´s mass with the botafumeiro, (the humongous swinging incense burner- like the thing ways a ton or something, and was originally used to try and wipe out the smell of the pilgrims), go to the open-air market again and order fresh seafood to have cooked for us at the cafe. We really liked that experience and have plans to try some different seafood there. We also plan to take the rooftop tour of the cathedral. It is supposed to be spectacular. We´d also like to go back to the parador and relax in the lap of luxury while sipping a little something. So that´s the plan for our big day. We´ll see how it goes. As they say in Costa Rica, "Pura Vida" - It´s all good.
The next morning we head to Madrid. There we hope to see Picasso´s "Guernica", go to La Casa de los Champiñones for handmade sangria and specialty mushrooms, do a little shopping, and some people watching on the Plaza Mayor and the Puerta del Sol. Our hotel is in that neighborhood.
The very early morn of the 26th we head to Madrid´s Barajas Airport and home to the ones we love.
God´s blessings to all, and forever and always, Buen Camino.
Friday, July 19, 2013
July 18
Monte del Gozo to Santiago 5km
We left in the dark at 6am to walk the last 5 kilometers into Santiago. As usual we stopped for cafe con leche and churros con chocolate at the 1km cafe. Then we walked the last kilometer into Santiago Center at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella. We were the very first ones to arrive at the cathedral and the plaza de los Obreros. It was beautiful and awesome. We stood ontop of the last waymarker shell and celebrated. It was emotional, but surreal. It actually took some time to realize we no longer were peregrinos nor had to say buen camino. 500 miles - amazing!
We went to get our compostella, the certificate of proof that we completed the camino. Then we went to see the cathedral, the crypt of the remains of St. James, and to hug the statue of him. We attended the final pilgrims mass at noon, in which all the pilgrims are blessed on the rest of their way. The beauty of the cathedral and the ceremony of a mass presided over by 10 concelebrants is a powerful sign of the importance of this pilgrimage. These are the traditions which conclude the camino. Believe it or not it is bittersweet.
We had a great day and night greeting other pilgrims we'd met along the way. We went to a huge open air market where we picked out fresh barnacles, took them to a cafe, where they steamed them for us, and served them with melted butter, good bread, and a cold glass of beer. What a unique experience. p.s. they were delicious. Then we tried octopus scampi and sardines along with a local white wine. The atmosphere of the market was purely authentic and something we can't experience in Wisconsin.
We visited the oldest hotel in Spain. It was built by Ferdinand and Isabel in 1489 next to the cathedral. Today it is a beautiful parador, state owned hotel. It is gorgeous. We spent some time exploring the patios and cloisters, imagining what it would have been like to be there with the king and queen who led to the colonization of the americas.
That night while walking to dinner we ran into the priest who had warmly welcomed us to Santiago. So we invited him to dinner. Turns out Father Paul is one cool, funny Jesuit, who knows the pope on a first name basis and also knew Mother Teresa very well. He is a great story teller, with a fantastic sense of humor who entertained us all evening. He told us the pope is writing a book called The Sanctity of Humor, because Jesuits believe humor is an important part of evangelization. Father Paul was a great example.
After dinner we listened to a Tuna, musical band, in the plaza until midnight. The backdrop was the lit-up facade of the cathedral. There was a beautiful moon. It was magical.
Though we have finished the camino de Santiago we are all always on our camino of life. So, figure out what it is you want to accomplish, where it is you want to go, and how to want to live your life, and ponte a camino-means literally start walking or get going or get started. The other expression which means carry on, keep walking or keep on trucking is ultraeia! So ...
Ultraeia! Ponte a camino!!!!!!!!!!
Monte del Gozo to Santiago 5km
We left in the dark at 6am to walk the last 5 kilometers into Santiago. As usual we stopped for cafe con leche and churros con chocolate at the 1km cafe. Then we walked the last kilometer into Santiago Center at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella. We were the very first ones to arrive at the cathedral and the plaza de los Obreros. It was beautiful and awesome. We stood ontop of the last waymarker shell and celebrated. It was emotional, but surreal. It actually took some time to realize we no longer were peregrinos nor had to say buen camino. 500 miles - amazing!
We went to get our compostella, the certificate of proof that we completed the camino. Then we went to see the cathedral, the crypt of the remains of St. James, and to hug the statue of him. We attended the final pilgrims mass at noon, in which all the pilgrims are blessed on the rest of their way. The beauty of the cathedral and the ceremony of a mass presided over by 10 concelebrants is a powerful sign of the importance of this pilgrimage. These are the traditions which conclude the camino. Believe it or not it is bittersweet.
We had a great day and night greeting other pilgrims we'd met along the way. We went to a huge open air market where we picked out fresh barnacles, took them to a cafe, where they steamed them for us, and served them with melted butter, good bread, and a cold glass of beer. What a unique experience. p.s. they were delicious. Then we tried octopus scampi and sardines along with a local white wine. The atmosphere of the market was purely authentic and something we can't experience in Wisconsin.
We visited the oldest hotel in Spain. It was built by Ferdinand and Isabel in 1489 next to the cathedral. Today it is a beautiful parador, state owned hotel. It is gorgeous. We spent some time exploring the patios and cloisters, imagining what it would have been like to be there with the king and queen who led to the colonization of the americas.
That night while walking to dinner we ran into the priest who had warmly welcomed us to Santiago. So we invited him to dinner. Turns out Father Paul is one cool, funny Jesuit, who knows the pope on a first name basis and also knew Mother Teresa very well. He is a great story teller, with a fantastic sense of humor who entertained us all evening. He told us the pope is writing a book called The Sanctity of Humor, because Jesuits believe humor is an important part of evangelization. Father Paul was a great example.
After dinner we listened to a Tuna, musical band, in the plaza until midnight. The backdrop was the lit-up facade of the cathedral. There was a beautiful moon. It was magical.
Though we have finished the camino de Santiago we are all always on our camino of life. So, figure out what it is you want to accomplish, where it is you want to go, and how to want to live your life, and ponte a camino-means literally start walking or get going or get started. The other expression which means carry on, keep walking or keep on trucking is ultraeia! So ...
Ultraeia! Ponte a camino!!!!!!!!!!
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
July 17
Arca O Pino to Monte del Gozo 15km
Short day with two cafe stops and in no hurry what so ever. Temps hit 90F and is sunny, but the paths today were shaded and very beautiful as we walked through eucalyptus trees and fern groves. Parts of it reminded us of the Wisconsin Dells area, other parts were like the enchanted forest. We continued to see many pilgrims whom we had traveled with off and on during the last month. Many were headed into Santiago today and others like us are planning to stay 5km outside Santiago and then hike into town early tomorrow.
Our albergue is like an olympic village. It´s a huge complex which sleeps over 400 people in multiple buildings, has playgrounds, cafeterias, and outdoor areas. Our group of 5 has our own room. It´s very institutional, but suits our purpose for entering Santiago. It was built for John Paul II´s visit.
We have been advised repeatedly that the best time to enter Santiago is in the early morning. The view is beautiful, we can see Santiago from our hilltop albergue, and there is less pilgrim congestion at the cathedral and other sites. We have a plan for when and what to see, but we will just see how that goes and how the camino provides. It feels surreal to be here and ready to complete our ... buen camino.
Arca O Pino to Monte del Gozo 15km
Short day with two cafe stops and in no hurry what so ever. Temps hit 90F and is sunny, but the paths today were shaded and very beautiful as we walked through eucalyptus trees and fern groves. Parts of it reminded us of the Wisconsin Dells area, other parts were like the enchanted forest. We continued to see many pilgrims whom we had traveled with off and on during the last month. Many were headed into Santiago today and others like us are planning to stay 5km outside Santiago and then hike into town early tomorrow.
Our albergue is like an olympic village. It´s a huge complex which sleeps over 400 people in multiple buildings, has playgrounds, cafeterias, and outdoor areas. Our group of 5 has our own room. It´s very institutional, but suits our purpose for entering Santiago. It was built for John Paul II´s visit.
We have been advised repeatedly that the best time to enter Santiago is in the early morning. The view is beautiful, we can see Santiago from our hilltop albergue, and there is less pilgrim congestion at the cathedral and other sites. We have a plan for when and what to see, but we will just see how that goes and how the camino provides. It feels surreal to be here and ready to complete our ... buen camino.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
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