July 12
Tiacastela to Barbadelo 24.3km
It was dark as we left our albergue at 6:30 and headed up a valley road a bit slowly as we warmed up our muscles. We came upon a little prayer house 2km into today´s hike. We all felt at home and at peace. It was very difficult to leave and move on. It was a very small ancient stone house with welcoming music, including the owner playing his guitar and singing Amazing Grace. He offered tea, coffee, lavender sachets for restful sleep, a warm welcome and a gentle prayer for all who entered. We were so glad to have noticed it and experienced its peacefullness.
Again, we climbed and climbed until we came out on top of the mountain where we could look down into the valleys full of fog. We walked along the mountain top for an hour or so until the trail headed down towards the valley bottoms. We were walking in the fog listening to the condensation dripping off the trees all around us. The valley paths were mystical/enchanted with diffused sunlight trying to burn off the fog. We came across a cattle herd and shepherd.  We walked amid the cows awhile and then had to yield as they made their way to a lower pasture.
We passed through several pueblos, but our only town of any size today was Sarria.  We visited a farmacia, a sporting goods store, a small church, and a monastery with a beautiful cloister.  We had to climb a set of stairs that lasted FOREVER, tough on peregrino knees, but once again hit a beautiful humid forest.  However, it led to another climb!  A doozie at the end of the day!!
From now on it will be much more crowded as many many pilgrims begin their pilgrimage in Sarria.  You must do the last 100 miles in order to earn your Compostela (certificate of completion of the pilgrimage).  From today on you must get two stamps each day on your pilgrim passport as evidence of your trek.  So it begins to get more crowded and less safe.  So, please pray for safe passage and a good bed-albergue each night.  And, buen camino.