Sunday, June 30, 2013
\June 30
Boadilla del Camino to Carrion de los Condes 26.5 km.
What an incredibly beautiful hike today. One of our favorites. WE hiked along a beautiful river canal once used for transportation, now used only for irrigation. There is an actual lock and dam system on the canal. We passed by early morning fishermen fishing for crayfish. We walked almost all day along beautiful gravel paths lined with shade trees, poppies, daisies, etc. We were serenaded by both bird song and frog song. We had a little picnic on the steps to a 16th century hermitage. Just gorgeous. The last 8 km. however were along the roadway in some pretty intense sun. Our albergue is one of the best yet. It is a convent run by nuns and the brothers of St. Vincent de Paul. It is immaculately clean, with plenty of services, and lots of space. We have actual beds, no bunks, with lots of room between them. There is a lovely breeze and it is just a piece of heaven.
We had a great meal at 3 o'clock. First course, lamb potato stew, second course quail and sea bass, chocolate ice cream for dessert. Yum! We found a market to get a few food supplies, and checked out the plazas a bit.
Tonight we attended one of the most beautiful masses I have ever attended. I was not the only one crying from the beauty of it. The love that emmanated from the priest and the nuns was truly amazing. As I am typing this two of the nuns stopped to wish us well. They are so loving and kind. The nuns sang beautifully and the priest gave each one of us an individual blessing. I cannot tell you how much it meant. And now, we must say, buen camino.
Boadilla del Camino to Carrion de los Condes 26.5 km.
What an incredibly beautiful hike today. One of our favorites. WE hiked along a beautiful river canal once used for transportation, now used only for irrigation. There is an actual lock and dam system on the canal. We passed by early morning fishermen fishing for crayfish. We walked almost all day along beautiful gravel paths lined with shade trees, poppies, daisies, etc. We were serenaded by both bird song and frog song. We had a little picnic on the steps to a 16th century hermitage. Just gorgeous. The last 8 km. however were along the roadway in some pretty intense sun. Our albergue is one of the best yet. It is a convent run by nuns and the brothers of St. Vincent de Paul. It is immaculately clean, with plenty of services, and lots of space. We have actual beds, no bunks, with lots of room between them. There is a lovely breeze and it is just a piece of heaven.
We had a great meal at 3 o'clock. First course, lamb potato stew, second course quail and sea bass, chocolate ice cream for dessert. Yum! We found a market to get a few food supplies, and checked out the plazas a bit.
Tonight we attended one of the most beautiful masses I have ever attended. I was not the only one crying from the beauty of it. The love that emmanated from the priest and the nuns was truly amazing. As I am typing this two of the nuns stopped to wish us well. They are so loving and kind. The nuns sang beautifully and the priest gave each one of us an individual blessing. I cannot tell you how much it meant. And now, we must say, buen camino.
June 29
Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 28.6km
We began our day with one of the most beautiful hikes down a single dirt path through a valley with fields of flowers, wheat, barley, and oats. The contrast of colors was amazing. It was fleece temperatures at the start, but quickly warmed up and we were in short sleeves before the sun got too high. Tortilla Espanola for breakfast after 9km and resupplied our water bottles. Not a cloud in the sky and we are on the meseta. To our surprise when we finished our hike in Boadilla the albergue was very much like a resort. Mowed grass, small swimming pool, decorated courtyard, and shaded patio. All for 6 euros a piece [about $8 each]. Our sleeping arrangement was two rooms of 24 people on bunks next to each other and a bathroom with two showers and two toilets used by both men and women. Do able. This place made a great salad which we were craving. WIFI was spotty and we got no connection. The town was very small, without any markets, etc. We made a brief visit to the 11th century church. A gentleman there said that the restoration is kept up by the whole community. He said, this community built this church, and when major restoration needed to be done, the whole community worked all day at their jobs, and then worked all night on the church. The community pride is amazing. Sometimes I'm almost afraid to ask a question because I know that if I show interest the answer could become a very long history lesson.
Often you read or hear that these days on the meseta are hot, dry, and ugly. We have not found that to be true. In fact, we have truly enjoyed them. Of course, we have been blessed by being here in a year when there has been plentiful rain, and cool temperatures. We have been getting going a little earlier in the mornings to beat the afternoon heat as it has been getting up in the low 90s, but by then we are about done for the day. Buen Camino.
Hontanas to Boadilla del Camino 28.6km
We began our day with one of the most beautiful hikes down a single dirt path through a valley with fields of flowers, wheat, barley, and oats. The contrast of colors was amazing. It was fleece temperatures at the start, but quickly warmed up and we were in short sleeves before the sun got too high. Tortilla Espanola for breakfast after 9km and resupplied our water bottles. Not a cloud in the sky and we are on the meseta. To our surprise when we finished our hike in Boadilla the albergue was very much like a resort. Mowed grass, small swimming pool, decorated courtyard, and shaded patio. All for 6 euros a piece [about $8 each]. Our sleeping arrangement was two rooms of 24 people on bunks next to each other and a bathroom with two showers and two toilets used by both men and women. Do able. This place made a great salad which we were craving. WIFI was spotty and we got no connection. The town was very small, without any markets, etc. We made a brief visit to the 11th century church. A gentleman there said that the restoration is kept up by the whole community. He said, this community built this church, and when major restoration needed to be done, the whole community worked all day at their jobs, and then worked all night on the church. The community pride is amazing. Sometimes I'm almost afraid to ask a question because I know that if I show interest the answer could become a very long history lesson.
Often you read or hear that these days on the meseta are hot, dry, and ugly. We have not found that to be true. In fact, we have truly enjoyed them. Of course, we have been blessed by being here in a year when there has been plentiful rain, and cool temperatures. We have been getting going a little earlier in the mornings to beat the afternoon heat as it has been getting up in the low 90s, but by then we are about done for the day. Buen Camino.
Friday, June 28, 2013
June 28
Burgos to Hontanas 31.8km
Last night we went for an evening stroll as did all the spaniards in Burgos. We had a few tapas and people watched in the plazas. There were street performers, mimes, and lots of family life to watch.
We did laundry at the albergue and hung it out on the line between the sides of the building in the central patio, but from the second floor you can only hope your laundry doesn´t drop from the ground. We visited the cathedral in Burgos one of the worlds most beautiful and were astounded by the works of art and the treasures in the treasury. For you Spanish students, El. Cid is buried there.
Our hospitalero entertained us all by playing guitar and singing, a very spanish experience. Our albergue was on the second floor above a church. Lorie has been able to attend daily mass most days. Its amazing how many people here do that. That evening our hospitalero was very concerned as there were more people than beds. He counted our mochillas (backpacks) at least twenty times to make sure how many people he had rented beds to. Then he started counting mattresses. Finally, we were very crowded with five people sleeping on mattresses on the floor and one person sleeping on the floor itself, but we all shared blankets with him. His repeated backpack counting was even more entertaining than his guitar playing.
Today, we entered the meseta, the high flat tableland. We climbed up onto the meseta and hiked the flat top for a long time before dipping down into a river valley then right back up to the top of the meseta. We will be on the meseta for three or four days. Much of central Spain is meseta. It was a lovely day with a wonderful breeze.
Tonight we shared our meal with a man from Paris and another couple from Germany. English was the shared language. Wonderful people and the stories shared become added memories.
We are getting to the point where feet ache, but have become tough and are beginning to accept the task we ask of them. Everyday we see people nursing their feet because of blisters or soreness. Everyone also has advise as to how best to take care of them.
For you Spanish students: the new expression I am hearing constantly is ¨venga¨. You´ll recognize it as the subjunctive of venir. But the way they use it is as a pausal phrase, or as okay, or as, vamos, let´s go, get going. It is just constantly in use! So, Venga!
Buen Camino.
Burgos to Hontanas 31.8km
Last night we went for an evening stroll as did all the spaniards in Burgos. We had a few tapas and people watched in the plazas. There were street performers, mimes, and lots of family life to watch.
We did laundry at the albergue and hung it out on the line between the sides of the building in the central patio, but from the second floor you can only hope your laundry doesn´t drop from the ground. We visited the cathedral in Burgos one of the worlds most beautiful and were astounded by the works of art and the treasures in the treasury. For you Spanish students, El. Cid is buried there.
Our hospitalero entertained us all by playing guitar and singing, a very spanish experience. Our albergue was on the second floor above a church. Lorie has been able to attend daily mass most days. Its amazing how many people here do that. That evening our hospitalero was very concerned as there were more people than beds. He counted our mochillas (backpacks) at least twenty times to make sure how many people he had rented beds to. Then he started counting mattresses. Finally, we were very crowded with five people sleeping on mattresses on the floor and one person sleeping on the floor itself, but we all shared blankets with him. His repeated backpack counting was even more entertaining than his guitar playing.
Today, we entered the meseta, the high flat tableland. We climbed up onto the meseta and hiked the flat top for a long time before dipping down into a river valley then right back up to the top of the meseta. We will be on the meseta for three or four days. Much of central Spain is meseta. It was a lovely day with a wonderful breeze.
Tonight we shared our meal with a man from Paris and another couple from Germany. English was the shared language. Wonderful people and the stories shared become added memories.
We are getting to the point where feet ache, but have become tough and are beginning to accept the task we ask of them. Everyday we see people nursing their feet because of blisters or soreness. Everyone also has advise as to how best to take care of them.
For you Spanish students: the new expression I am hearing constantly is ¨venga¨. You´ll recognize it as the subjunctive of venir. But the way they use it is as a pausal phrase, or as okay, or as, vamos, let´s go, get going. It is just constantly in use! So, Venga!
Buen Camino.
Thursday, June 27, 2013
June 27
Ages to Burgos 22.5 km
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, DAD!!
Before supper last night we took a short look,(because it´s tiny), at Ages. It is a very historic and lovely little pueblo. We stopped for merienda (afternoon snack) in an outdoor cafe and had a wonderful conversation with a retired couple and a thirty-something couple, all Spanish, all on vacation. We had the same conversation we´ve had with people from Polynesia, Europe, Australia, Asia, etc all along the camino; China is taking over the world, with some help from India and Brazil. The US and Spain are going to become third world nations., etc. I made the comment that we tell students that we study history to learn from our mistakes but that right now the Chinese are making the exact same mistakes we´ve made. The older man from Spain laughed really hard and say, oh you Americans, the Chinese have been around forever, they have history, you are just babies, you don´t even have history yet. What a great point from that perspective. We were having a similar conversation the day before with some young people from England and a young man who has traveled literally all over the world, and I do mean everywhere!! He made the interesting comment that he would like to visit Cuba before it becomes the US. So we all talked about who would end up controlling Cuba. On the camino as in most of Europe people discuss history, politics, the economy, etc. and they know so much more about the whole world than I feel like we do in the states.
Our homemade paella was delicious and in great company. We took a picture of the woman of the house cooking it in its special pan on its special stove. We hope to be able to post pictures soon, but the wifi has been spotty at best. As we said our albergue was wonderful, the best night of sleep of the trip! Woke with a ton of energy and less sore feet this a.m.
There was a very nice road out of Ages toward Atapuerca, where we tred the ground walked by the first human beings. There is a beautiful visitor center there and a very activ archaeological dig in progress. They have discovered the remains of humans over 1 million years old, the oldest discovered anywhere in the world to date. Sadly, they also discovered that they were cannibals. In perfect Spanish humor the restaurant on the way out of town is named, El restaurante Comosapiens. (Como = I eat)
Our lovely country road quickly became a goat path full of stones and goat poop - full!!! It was really cool though, and I do mean cool!!! The wind was blowing so hard that it literally blew us off the path repeatedly. A couple of cloven hooves would have come in pretty handy. When we got to the top there was a huge cross, and an incredible view looking off the other side of the mountain.
We are now in our albergue in the center of Burgos, showered and about ready to head out to see one of the world´s most beautiful cathedrals, and some of the other sites. Speaking of showers, I´m sure some of you have been wondering about the bathroom facilities, considering some of the places we have stayed. We have modern showers, toilets, etc. in every place. There was only one albergue where the facilities were shared male/female, otherwise everything is modern, clean and nice. The way may be ancient, but the pottys are not. Buen camino.
Ages to Burgos 22.5 km
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, DAD!!
Before supper last night we took a short look,(because it´s tiny), at Ages. It is a very historic and lovely little pueblo. We stopped for merienda (afternoon snack) in an outdoor cafe and had a wonderful conversation with a retired couple and a thirty-something couple, all Spanish, all on vacation. We had the same conversation we´ve had with people from Polynesia, Europe, Australia, Asia, etc all along the camino; China is taking over the world, with some help from India and Brazil. The US and Spain are going to become third world nations., etc. I made the comment that we tell students that we study history to learn from our mistakes but that right now the Chinese are making the exact same mistakes we´ve made. The older man from Spain laughed really hard and say, oh you Americans, the Chinese have been around forever, they have history, you are just babies, you don´t even have history yet. What a great point from that perspective. We were having a similar conversation the day before with some young people from England and a young man who has traveled literally all over the world, and I do mean everywhere!! He made the interesting comment that he would like to visit Cuba before it becomes the US. So we all talked about who would end up controlling Cuba. On the camino as in most of Europe people discuss history, politics, the economy, etc. and they know so much more about the whole world than I feel like we do in the states.
Our homemade paella was delicious and in great company. We took a picture of the woman of the house cooking it in its special pan on its special stove. We hope to be able to post pictures soon, but the wifi has been spotty at best. As we said our albergue was wonderful, the best night of sleep of the trip! Woke with a ton of energy and less sore feet this a.m.
There was a very nice road out of Ages toward Atapuerca, where we tred the ground walked by the first human beings. There is a beautiful visitor center there and a very activ archaeological dig in progress. They have discovered the remains of humans over 1 million years old, the oldest discovered anywhere in the world to date. Sadly, they also discovered that they were cannibals. In perfect Spanish humor the restaurant on the way out of town is named, El restaurante Comosapiens. (Como = I eat)
Our lovely country road quickly became a goat path full of stones and goat poop - full!!! It was really cool though, and I do mean cool!!! The wind was blowing so hard that it literally blew us off the path repeatedly. A couple of cloven hooves would have come in pretty handy. When we got to the top there was a huge cross, and an incredible view looking off the other side of the mountain.
We are now in our albergue in the center of Burgos, showered and about ready to head out to see one of the world´s most beautiful cathedrals, and some of the other sites. Speaking of showers, I´m sure some of you have been wondering about the bathroom facilities, considering some of the places we have stayed. We have modern showers, toilets, etc. in every place. There was only one albergue where the facilities were shared male/female, otherwise everything is modern, clean and nice. The way may be ancient, but the pottys are not. Buen camino.
Wednesday, June 26, 2013
June 26
Belorado to Ages 30.4km
Happy anniversary Jessica and Ryan. We extended our walk today by and extra 3km because the paths were good and the weather was cool, actually it was downright mountain chilly. Most of the paths were easy walking, but we had several very steep climbs, one had a sharp descent down to a small river followed by an immediate ascent which almost felt like your nose was going to hit the road in front of you, but we made it. We ended up at a wonderful mountain albergue with beautiful cedar plank walls and gorgeous wooden beds where for the first time Mike doesn't have to climb into the top bunk. Tonight, the woman of the house is making us a homemade paella. We´ll take a picture if we can. And the gentleman said it comes with mucho vino! Can´t wait.
Buen Camino
Belorado to Ages 30.4km
Happy anniversary Jessica and Ryan. We extended our walk today by and extra 3km because the paths were good and the weather was cool, actually it was downright mountain chilly. Most of the paths were easy walking, but we had several very steep climbs, one had a sharp descent down to a small river followed by an immediate ascent which almost felt like your nose was going to hit the road in front of you, but we made it. We ended up at a wonderful mountain albergue with beautiful cedar plank walls and gorgeous wooden beds where for the first time Mike doesn't have to climb into the top bunk. Tonight, the woman of the house is making us a homemade paella. We´ll take a picture if we can. And the gentleman said it comes with mucho vino! Can´t wait.
Buen Camino
June 25
Santo Domingo to Belorado 24.4km
It was nice to have a couple of easy days in a row after the two long 30 plus kilometer days. Today was good paths and plenty of sunshine. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the gardens of the 16th century church in which we stayed, stepping back even further in time. Can hardly believe these opportunities. We tried to blog but the whole area´s internet was out of service. So, instead we walked to the plaza Mayor and had a beer in an outdoor cafe. We did a little shopping and had a light dinner on the patio of our albergue. That night at our church they had a special blessing of the pilgrims by a very entertaining local priest. It was fun and touching.
Buen Camino
Santo Domingo to Belorado 24.4km
It was nice to have a couple of easy days in a row after the two long 30 plus kilometer days. Today was good paths and plenty of sunshine. We spent the afternoon relaxing in the gardens of the 16th century church in which we stayed, stepping back even further in time. Can hardly believe these opportunities. We tried to blog but the whole area´s internet was out of service. So, instead we walked to the plaza Mayor and had a beer in an outdoor cafe. We did a little shopping and had a light dinner on the patio of our albergue. That night at our church they had a special blessing of the pilgrims by a very entertaining local priest. It was fun and touching.
Buen Camino
June 24
Najera to Santo Domingo 22.5km
After finishing the blog last night we went out to sit on the patio in the first little bit of sun we´d seen in awhile. I was telling people that we´d been writing about all the different paths of the camino. They said, oh, you forgot, the deep mud red clay paths, the huge slabs of marble slate paths, and the old roman roads, that are cobblestone, etc. etc. As you can tell we walk a wide variety of surfaces each day through varying terrain.
Then we went inside to have supper and the hospitalier (innkeeper) came over and said to me, you speak Spanish, right? I need help telling this man that he can´t register until everyone in his group is here, but he speaks Czech. So, he said,´I´ll tell you in Spanish, you translate to English for this girl, she´ll translate to slavic, and he´ll be able to understand her. Wow, the perfect camino conversation.
The walk to Santo Domingo was primarily wide country paths through gently undulating farmland. We spent the night at a 17th century abbey of Cistercian nuns. We went to hear them sing vespers, and made a light dinner in the stone and wood beam kitchen. What a cool step back in time.
Buen Camino
Najera to Santo Domingo 22.5km
After finishing the blog last night we went out to sit on the patio in the first little bit of sun we´d seen in awhile. I was telling people that we´d been writing about all the different paths of the camino. They said, oh, you forgot, the deep mud red clay paths, the huge slabs of marble slate paths, and the old roman roads, that are cobblestone, etc. etc. As you can tell we walk a wide variety of surfaces each day through varying terrain.
Then we went inside to have supper and the hospitalier (innkeeper) came over and said to me, you speak Spanish, right? I need help telling this man that he can´t register until everyone in his group is here, but he speaks Czech. So, he said,´I´ll tell you in Spanish, you translate to English for this girl, she´ll translate to slavic, and he´ll be able to understand her. Wow, the perfect camino conversation.
The walk to Santo Domingo was primarily wide country paths through gently undulating farmland. We spent the night at a 17th century abbey of Cistercian nuns. We went to hear them sing vespers, and made a light dinner in the stone and wood beam kitchen. What a cool step back in time.
Buen Camino
Sunday, June 23, 2013
June 23
Logroño to Najera 31.6km
Another 30km day. Our feet didn´t like what we put them through yesterday and now we did it again today. No sun during the day and more rain. Apparently, the rain in Spain does not stay mainly on the plain. For those of you in our generation you may relate to these words, ''it never rains in España. It pours. Man, it pours.'' They have been having a wet lack of spring, just like at home. After hiking 12km, we stopped for bocadillos de tortilla y jamon (ham and egg omlette). And of course cafe con leche.
While perched on a curb on the edge of a small town, fixing our feet, and changing our socks, (mid-hike), a man stopped to visit. He was delighted by the fact that we were teachers as he is a retired teacher. He said, will you be here a few minutes? When I said that we would, he said that he would just run home and come back with a map of a place that we needed to visit. On his return he gave us quite a history lesson about a world heritage site in the area which is where Spanish was written for the first time ever, over 1,200 years ago. He was passionate about his belief that it is one of the most beautiful places in the world and that we absolutely had to go see it. He said, how can I make you understand? It would be like going to Rome and not seeing the Sistine Chapel, or going to D.C. and not seeing the Capitol. I have to tell you that I had to lie and swear to him that we would go, but sadly, another 15 km. was not in the picture! Maybe someday.
The phrase for yesterday and today would be ''different paths''. People on the camino come from all different parts of the world, along all different paths, yet here we converge as one on ''the way''. The paths we take here are also many; some spiritual, some physical, some cow paths, some gravel trails, some boulder strewn, some asphalt, some wooded, some populated, some solitary, some high roads, some low roads, but always one way, ''the Way of Saint James''. Buen Camino.
Logroño to Najera 31.6km
Another 30km day. Our feet didn´t like what we put them through yesterday and now we did it again today. No sun during the day and more rain. Apparently, the rain in Spain does not stay mainly on the plain. For those of you in our generation you may relate to these words, ''it never rains in España. It pours. Man, it pours.'' They have been having a wet lack of spring, just like at home. After hiking 12km, we stopped for bocadillos de tortilla y jamon (ham and egg omlette). And of course cafe con leche.
While perched on a curb on the edge of a small town, fixing our feet, and changing our socks, (mid-hike), a man stopped to visit. He was delighted by the fact that we were teachers as he is a retired teacher. He said, will you be here a few minutes? When I said that we would, he said that he would just run home and come back with a map of a place that we needed to visit. On his return he gave us quite a history lesson about a world heritage site in the area which is where Spanish was written for the first time ever, over 1,200 years ago. He was passionate about his belief that it is one of the most beautiful places in the world and that we absolutely had to go see it. He said, how can I make you understand? It would be like going to Rome and not seeing the Sistine Chapel, or going to D.C. and not seeing the Capitol. I have to tell you that I had to lie and swear to him that we would go, but sadly, another 15 km. was not in the picture! Maybe someday.
The phrase for yesterday and today would be ''different paths''. People on the camino come from all different parts of the world, along all different paths, yet here we converge as one on ''the way''. The paths we take here are also many; some spiritual, some physical, some cow paths, some gravel trails, some boulder strewn, some asphalt, some wooded, some populated, some solitary, some high roads, some low roads, but always one way, ''the Way of Saint James''. Buen Camino.
June 22
Los Arcos to Logroño 30.1km
Note from last night: Tapas were very good and it was fun to try a wide variety of them.
Finally, we have a beautiful sunny day with temperatures passing 30 degrees C (over 90 degrees F). Lunch in a very Spanish town plaza. We watched families visiting with each other and the kids playing with scooters and blowing bubbles. Being a Saturday many people were out enjoying each others company and the sun.
Today was a very long and tiring day. Both of us needed to give our feet a rest. The hike itself was through more beautiful county with rolling hills and many vineyards. There were whole fields of colorful flowers and the fragrence given off was incredibly sweet. We began to see a change in vegetation, from mountain to farmland. Just before finishing our hike for the day we completed our first region of Spain, Navarra, and entered La Rioja, famous for its red wine. It should make for a very buen camino.
Los Arcos to Logroño 30.1km
Note from last night: Tapas were very good and it was fun to try a wide variety of them.
Finally, we have a beautiful sunny day with temperatures passing 30 degrees C (over 90 degrees F). Lunch in a very Spanish town plaza. We watched families visiting with each other and the kids playing with scooters and blowing bubbles. Being a Saturday many people were out enjoying each others company and the sun.
Today was a very long and tiring day. Both of us needed to give our feet a rest. The hike itself was through more beautiful county with rolling hills and many vineyards. There were whole fields of colorful flowers and the fragrence given off was incredibly sweet. We began to see a change in vegetation, from mountain to farmland. Just before finishing our hike for the day we completed our first region of Spain, Navarra, and entered La Rioja, famous for its red wine. It should make for a very buen camino.
Friday, June 21, 2013
June 20.
Puente La Reina to Estella 21.9km.
Lots of rolling farmland composed of vineyards, olive groves, and wheat fields mixed with poppies. With all the rain everything is very green.
In response to Mardena's questions, people have been walking the Way for well over 1200 years, since a shepherd boy was led by a star to the remains of St. James. There are special services for the pilgrims (walkers) all along the way, including water fountains, today a wine fountain, special meals, and the albergues (hostels). In some we have had private rooms, but most are like dorm life.
June 21 Estella to Los Arcos 21.1km Today it poured almost all day, but the scenery was exquisite and the paths were the easiest we´ve had. We´ve had lots of great food;trout, squid sandwich and paella. Tonight there is a special celebration in the town we are in and we are going out on a Tapas pilgrimage, you go from one restaurant-bar to the next, and each one is offering a special Tapa (appetizer)for a very reasonable price. Should be fun!
June 21 Estella to Los Arcos 21.1km Today it poured almost all day, but the scenery was exquisite and the paths were the easiest we´ve had. We´ve had lots of great food;trout, squid sandwich and paella. Tonight there is a special celebration in the town we are in and we are going out on a Tapas pilgrimage, you go from one restaurant-bar to the next, and each one is offering a special Tapa (appetizer)for a very reasonable price. Should be fun!
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
June 19.
Cizur Menor to Puente La Reina - 19km. We woke up to a cowbell alarm at 6. Same routine, everyone begins to stir, get in line to the bathroom and then begin packing. They had a little breadfast room with bread/jam and the worst coffee ever! Again we have a rain day with a mountain to cross. Mud! Thats how we will describe todays trail. Slipping and sliding up the mountain and then down the other side. Beautiful country though. Wheat fields where ever it was flat enough to plant and everything so green. Our boots now look like we´ve been on the camino more than 4 days. Half way through our day we stopped at a local bar (cafe) and had cafe con leche, a big step up from what was called coffee this morning. The albergue we are staying at is very nice. We have our own private room right off the main room of 40 beds. There are a couple of other rooms set up the same way. Maybe they try to put the married couples in these and everyone else in the main room. Dinner tonight will be a pilgrims meal of chicken, fish, pasta, and a drink. The rain has stopped for now and we are taking care of chores; laundry, blog, and sore feet. The people we meet are from all over the world with many different backgrounds and experiences, different languages and customs, and yet here to complete the same jouney as we. We are both doing well and are enjoying Spain and the camino very much. We wish you all well.
Buen Camino.
P.S. to los estudiantes de Profe - you know all of the neck and infinity scarves that are so popular? Well, everyone, men and women, are wearing them in Spain, but they are not merely decorative. They use them as shawls when it´s chilly, hats when it´s sunny, etc. They serve a purpose. They use si to answer the cell phone, and they DO NOT use their cell phones when socializing with others. Haven´t seen a single cell phone out when they are sitting together in restaurants or bars. Buen Camino, Profe
P.S. to los estudiantes de Profe - you know all of the neck and infinity scarves that are so popular? Well, everyone, men and women, are wearing them in Spain, but they are not merely decorative. They use them as shawls when it´s chilly, hats when it´s sunny, etc. They serve a purpose. They use si to answer the cell phone, and they DO NOT use their cell phones when socializing with others. Haven´t seen a single cell phone out when they are sitting together in restaurants or bars. Buen Camino, Profe
June 18.
Larrasoana to Cizur Menor. 20.9km. Waking up to our own alarm at 6 in our own room at the hotel, we packed and headed across the street to the market for breakfast and lunch supplies for the day. During the night the rain moved in. We would be hiking in the rain today. At the market we ate a pilgrims breakfast of bread, yogurt, juice, and of course cafe conleche. Heading down the trail we were feeling sore muscles resisting our plans to move on down the camino. Toughed it out! As you hike you meet and greet people along the way. You pass them while they adjust their gear or take a break and then they pass you as you do the same later. The locals you pass are very polite and encouraging with words of support, "buen camino", and as expected Lorie returns with some spanish jargon I assume is a polite response back. I´ll catch on soon. We ended our day at 3pm at the anticipated albergue with plenty of beds and a wonderful host. Many of the people we had been hiking with stopped at the same albergue. We did some laundry and hung it up to dry outside during the break in the weather and then rested and visited with other pilgrims. Supper was at a local establishment with two other couples we met on the trail, one Dutch, Elzenga was her maiden name (Chris and Rog, her father was from Friesland - sp? her dad had family who came to midwest and farmed, 1940s or 50s. Not sure of names), the other couple are Australian who work in an international school in China. Our albergue has 3 rooms of bunkbeds where your bunk in inbetween two others. Mayber 27 people in the albergue. You can´t be modest. Lights out at 10pm.
Buen Camino.
June 17.
Roncesvalles to Larrosoana. 27.4km. The 6am wake up bell sounded throughout the albergue setting off a stir of 70 pilgrims. Time to get up, pack up, and file out of the building by 8. After hiking 3km we stopped at a market to buy our breakfast and trail lunch for the day. Yesterday was an uphill day where today was more of a downhill day with a couple of hills built in just for amusement. Our destination today is the town of Larrosoana, 24.9km down the camino. We passed by beautiful rivers, valleys, and farmland. It felt great to be hiking in such a delightful area of Spain. At 4pm we arrived in Larrosoana to find that the albergue had only one bed left as we stood in line. Thankfully, we found an inexpensive hotel (pension) situated across the street from the market. Supper tonight was pasta and tomato suace made in the microwave, some bread and cheese, and of course some spanish wine.
Buen Camino.
Sunday, June 16, 2013
June 16.
St. Jean Pied De Port to Roncesvalles. 25.1km. Happy Fathers Day. Today started with a perfect French crescent and cafe au lait breakfast in beautiful St. Jean Pied De Port. The word for today is difficult because not only is it difficult for the mind and body to adjust, but it is considered to be the most difficult day on the Camino. What a way to start. Today our paths were country roads and woodland paths up and down the Pyrenees Mountains, mostly up, gaining 1450 meters in elevation. We were tired but the scenery was beautiful. We sat down to the pilgrim´s dinner with a woman from Ireland, one from Australia, and a mother and son from Holland. Along the way we hiked with two French women who´d already been hiking 30 days through France. Hope to post some pictures soon. Blogging is difficult, at best, which is the other reason for the word of the day. The Camino has blessed us so far. Buen Camino.
June 15 - Travel Day
A day filled with travel, truly planes, trains and automobiles; Baltimore to Charlotte to Madrid to Pamplona to San Jean Pied du Port,France. As promised, the Camino provided and all went perfectly according to plan. The saying for the day is, ¨It´s a small world¨ because we had two unexpected run-ins, the first with Leonel (Andrew)Buchanan in the Baltimore Airport, and the second with Susie and Ricki Rudesill and Susie´s sister in the Atocha train station in Madrid. Imagine, 3 million people in Madrid and we run into Susie in a busy train station. Man, you can´t escape Susie anywhere! Maybe she will post one of the pictures she took. Here safely. Buen Camino.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)