Monday, July 22, 2013
July 19-23
Finisterre 3.5km
Arrived by bus July 19th. We decided not to walk here as our goal was Santiago de Compostela, and we wanted to end our visit with an actual vacation. We did however make the final pilgrimage from the pueblo of Finisterre to the very end of the earth, 3.5 km. The path ends at the altar to the sun, Ara Solis, from the ancient time when the people here worshiped the sun. Today there is a scenic park and a lighthouse on the site. More about that in a minute.
Upon arrival in Finisterre we were met at the bus by rental agents looking to book you in an albergue, etc. We asked one woman to see what she had available and as we walked and talked with her we discovered that she could rent us a private apartment overlooking the harbor. Seemed too good to be true. We were a little nervous going off with her, but as always, the camino provided. We have an incredible private apartment overlooking the harbor and the Atlantic Ocean. The apartment itself is beautiful and has all of the amenities. Both the great room and our bedroom open onto the harborview. Mike has been able to study the port and the fishing industry. This is one of the world´s leading harbors for catching octopus. No deep water swimming for me!!, but I will be eating some of the local specialty. They catch a wide variety of fish and seafood, but are famous for the octopus industry.
Two doors down from our apartment is a bakery, so each day we get fresh bakery to go with our cafe con leche. Two doors more and we´re at the supermarket, so we can make our own meals. Last night we made a pasta marinara with squid and shrimp.
We have taken several walks, but nothing like 30k/day. We´ve been to the local beaches, and enjoyed watching the local, pilgrim, and tourist life out our front windows.
The night of the 20th we made our final pilgrimage to the lighthouse and got our final pilgrim´s stamp. It is the tradition to watch the sun set there, at the end of the earth, and then to have a bonfire to burn your final intentions and any articles you wish to burn. It´s a fun tradition.
We hiked around on the point and then picked the perfect spot from which to watch the sun set. We enjoyed a picnic of bread, cheese, fruit, and wine. The sunset was very pretty, but not spectacular, as it was somewhat obscured right at the end by clouds. The sun set at 10:20 p.m. We burned our socks!!!! and then hiked 3.5k in the dark back to our apt. We had a glass of wine as we watched the port life out our window. You know it was only midnight on a Saturday, so for the spaniards the night was just beginning.
Being an actual fishing port there is a huge fish market here where the boats unload. Each weekday afternoon they have an auction (like at the county fair) where vendors, restauratures, and other professionals bid on the lots of fish. We can buy a ticket for 1 euro to go in and watch. So, of course, we´re going. I´m sure it will SMELL great!
Tomorrow is our birthdays and anniversary and we are headed back to Santiago where we plan to see if we can catch the pilgrim´s mass with the botafumeiro, (the humongous swinging incense burner- like the thing ways a ton or something, and was originally used to try and wipe out the smell of the pilgrims), go to the open-air market again and order fresh seafood to have cooked for us at the cafe. We really liked that experience and have plans to try some different seafood there. We also plan to take the rooftop tour of the cathedral. It is supposed to be spectacular. We´d also like to go back to the parador and relax in the lap of luxury while sipping a little something. So that´s the plan for our big day. We´ll see how it goes. As they say in Costa Rica, "Pura Vida" - It´s all good.
The next morning we head to Madrid. There we hope to see Picasso´s "Guernica", go to La Casa de los Champiñones for handmade sangria and specialty mushrooms, do a little shopping, and some people watching on the Plaza Mayor and the Puerta del Sol. Our hotel is in that neighborhood.
The very early morn of the 26th we head to Madrid´s Barajas Airport and home to the ones we love.
God´s blessings to all, and forever and always, Buen Camino.
Finisterre 3.5km
Arrived by bus July 19th. We decided not to walk here as our goal was Santiago de Compostela, and we wanted to end our visit with an actual vacation. We did however make the final pilgrimage from the pueblo of Finisterre to the very end of the earth, 3.5 km. The path ends at the altar to the sun, Ara Solis, from the ancient time when the people here worshiped the sun. Today there is a scenic park and a lighthouse on the site. More about that in a minute.
Upon arrival in Finisterre we were met at the bus by rental agents looking to book you in an albergue, etc. We asked one woman to see what she had available and as we walked and talked with her we discovered that she could rent us a private apartment overlooking the harbor. Seemed too good to be true. We were a little nervous going off with her, but as always, the camino provided. We have an incredible private apartment overlooking the harbor and the Atlantic Ocean. The apartment itself is beautiful and has all of the amenities. Both the great room and our bedroom open onto the harborview. Mike has been able to study the port and the fishing industry. This is one of the world´s leading harbors for catching octopus. No deep water swimming for me!!, but I will be eating some of the local specialty. They catch a wide variety of fish and seafood, but are famous for the octopus industry.
Two doors down from our apartment is a bakery, so each day we get fresh bakery to go with our cafe con leche. Two doors more and we´re at the supermarket, so we can make our own meals. Last night we made a pasta marinara with squid and shrimp.
We have taken several walks, but nothing like 30k/day. We´ve been to the local beaches, and enjoyed watching the local, pilgrim, and tourist life out our front windows.
The night of the 20th we made our final pilgrimage to the lighthouse and got our final pilgrim´s stamp. It is the tradition to watch the sun set there, at the end of the earth, and then to have a bonfire to burn your final intentions and any articles you wish to burn. It´s a fun tradition.
We hiked around on the point and then picked the perfect spot from which to watch the sun set. We enjoyed a picnic of bread, cheese, fruit, and wine. The sunset was very pretty, but not spectacular, as it was somewhat obscured right at the end by clouds. The sun set at 10:20 p.m. We burned our socks!!!! and then hiked 3.5k in the dark back to our apt. We had a glass of wine as we watched the port life out our window. You know it was only midnight on a Saturday, so for the spaniards the night was just beginning.
Being an actual fishing port there is a huge fish market here where the boats unload. Each weekday afternoon they have an auction (like at the county fair) where vendors, restauratures, and other professionals bid on the lots of fish. We can buy a ticket for 1 euro to go in and watch. So, of course, we´re going. I´m sure it will SMELL great!
Tomorrow is our birthdays and anniversary and we are headed back to Santiago where we plan to see if we can catch the pilgrim´s mass with the botafumeiro, (the humongous swinging incense burner- like the thing ways a ton or something, and was originally used to try and wipe out the smell of the pilgrims), go to the open-air market again and order fresh seafood to have cooked for us at the cafe. We really liked that experience and have plans to try some different seafood there. We also plan to take the rooftop tour of the cathedral. It is supposed to be spectacular. We´d also like to go back to the parador and relax in the lap of luxury while sipping a little something. So that´s the plan for our big day. We´ll see how it goes. As they say in Costa Rica, "Pura Vida" - It´s all good.
The next morning we head to Madrid. There we hope to see Picasso´s "Guernica", go to La Casa de los Champiñones for handmade sangria and specialty mushrooms, do a little shopping, and some people watching on the Plaza Mayor and the Puerta del Sol. Our hotel is in that neighborhood.
The very early morn of the 26th we head to Madrid´s Barajas Airport and home to the ones we love.
God´s blessings to all, and forever and always, Buen Camino.
Friday, July 19, 2013
July 18
Monte del Gozo to Santiago 5km
We left in the dark at 6am to walk the last 5 kilometers into Santiago. As usual we stopped for cafe con leche and churros con chocolate at the 1km cafe. Then we walked the last kilometer into Santiago Center at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella. We were the very first ones to arrive at the cathedral and the plaza de los Obreros. It was beautiful and awesome. We stood ontop of the last waymarker shell and celebrated. It was emotional, but surreal. It actually took some time to realize we no longer were peregrinos nor had to say buen camino. 500 miles - amazing!
We went to get our compostella, the certificate of proof that we completed the camino. Then we went to see the cathedral, the crypt of the remains of St. James, and to hug the statue of him. We attended the final pilgrims mass at noon, in which all the pilgrims are blessed on the rest of their way. The beauty of the cathedral and the ceremony of a mass presided over by 10 concelebrants is a powerful sign of the importance of this pilgrimage. These are the traditions which conclude the camino. Believe it or not it is bittersweet.
We had a great day and night greeting other pilgrims we'd met along the way. We went to a huge open air market where we picked out fresh barnacles, took them to a cafe, where they steamed them for us, and served them with melted butter, good bread, and a cold glass of beer. What a unique experience. p.s. they were delicious. Then we tried octopus scampi and sardines along with a local white wine. The atmosphere of the market was purely authentic and something we can't experience in Wisconsin.
We visited the oldest hotel in Spain. It was built by Ferdinand and Isabel in 1489 next to the cathedral. Today it is a beautiful parador, state owned hotel. It is gorgeous. We spent some time exploring the patios and cloisters, imagining what it would have been like to be there with the king and queen who led to the colonization of the americas.
That night while walking to dinner we ran into the priest who had warmly welcomed us to Santiago. So we invited him to dinner. Turns out Father Paul is one cool, funny Jesuit, who knows the pope on a first name basis and also knew Mother Teresa very well. He is a great story teller, with a fantastic sense of humor who entertained us all evening. He told us the pope is writing a book called The Sanctity of Humor, because Jesuits believe humor is an important part of evangelization. Father Paul was a great example.
After dinner we listened to a Tuna, musical band, in the plaza until midnight. The backdrop was the lit-up facade of the cathedral. There was a beautiful moon. It was magical.
Though we have finished the camino de Santiago we are all always on our camino of life. So, figure out what it is you want to accomplish, where it is you want to go, and how to want to live your life, and ponte a camino-means literally start walking or get going or get started. The other expression which means carry on, keep walking or keep on trucking is ultraeia! So ...
Ultraeia! Ponte a camino!!!!!!!!!!
Monte del Gozo to Santiago 5km
We left in the dark at 6am to walk the last 5 kilometers into Santiago. As usual we stopped for cafe con leche and churros con chocolate at the 1km cafe. Then we walked the last kilometer into Santiago Center at the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella. We were the very first ones to arrive at the cathedral and the plaza de los Obreros. It was beautiful and awesome. We stood ontop of the last waymarker shell and celebrated. It was emotional, but surreal. It actually took some time to realize we no longer were peregrinos nor had to say buen camino. 500 miles - amazing!
We went to get our compostella, the certificate of proof that we completed the camino. Then we went to see the cathedral, the crypt of the remains of St. James, and to hug the statue of him. We attended the final pilgrims mass at noon, in which all the pilgrims are blessed on the rest of their way. The beauty of the cathedral and the ceremony of a mass presided over by 10 concelebrants is a powerful sign of the importance of this pilgrimage. These are the traditions which conclude the camino. Believe it or not it is bittersweet.
We had a great day and night greeting other pilgrims we'd met along the way. We went to a huge open air market where we picked out fresh barnacles, took them to a cafe, where they steamed them for us, and served them with melted butter, good bread, and a cold glass of beer. What a unique experience. p.s. they were delicious. Then we tried octopus scampi and sardines along with a local white wine. The atmosphere of the market was purely authentic and something we can't experience in Wisconsin.
We visited the oldest hotel in Spain. It was built by Ferdinand and Isabel in 1489 next to the cathedral. Today it is a beautiful parador, state owned hotel. It is gorgeous. We spent some time exploring the patios and cloisters, imagining what it would have been like to be there with the king and queen who led to the colonization of the americas.
That night while walking to dinner we ran into the priest who had warmly welcomed us to Santiago. So we invited him to dinner. Turns out Father Paul is one cool, funny Jesuit, who knows the pope on a first name basis and also knew Mother Teresa very well. He is a great story teller, with a fantastic sense of humor who entertained us all evening. He told us the pope is writing a book called The Sanctity of Humor, because Jesuits believe humor is an important part of evangelization. Father Paul was a great example.
After dinner we listened to a Tuna, musical band, in the plaza until midnight. The backdrop was the lit-up facade of the cathedral. There was a beautiful moon. It was magical.
Though we have finished the camino de Santiago we are all always on our camino of life. So, figure out what it is you want to accomplish, where it is you want to go, and how to want to live your life, and ponte a camino-means literally start walking or get going or get started. The other expression which means carry on, keep walking or keep on trucking is ultraeia! So ...
Ultraeia! Ponte a camino!!!!!!!!!!
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
July 17
Arca O Pino to Monte del Gozo 15km
Short day with two cafe stops and in no hurry what so ever. Temps hit 90F and is sunny, but the paths today were shaded and very beautiful as we walked through eucalyptus trees and fern groves. Parts of it reminded us of the Wisconsin Dells area, other parts were like the enchanted forest. We continued to see many pilgrims whom we had traveled with off and on during the last month. Many were headed into Santiago today and others like us are planning to stay 5km outside Santiago and then hike into town early tomorrow.
Our albergue is like an olympic village. It´s a huge complex which sleeps over 400 people in multiple buildings, has playgrounds, cafeterias, and outdoor areas. Our group of 5 has our own room. It´s very institutional, but suits our purpose for entering Santiago. It was built for John Paul II´s visit.
We have been advised repeatedly that the best time to enter Santiago is in the early morning. The view is beautiful, we can see Santiago from our hilltop albergue, and there is less pilgrim congestion at the cathedral and other sites. We have a plan for when and what to see, but we will just see how that goes and how the camino provides. It feels surreal to be here and ready to complete our ... buen camino.
Arca O Pino to Monte del Gozo 15km
Short day with two cafe stops and in no hurry what so ever. Temps hit 90F and is sunny, but the paths today were shaded and very beautiful as we walked through eucalyptus trees and fern groves. Parts of it reminded us of the Wisconsin Dells area, other parts were like the enchanted forest. We continued to see many pilgrims whom we had traveled with off and on during the last month. Many were headed into Santiago today and others like us are planning to stay 5km outside Santiago and then hike into town early tomorrow.
Our albergue is like an olympic village. It´s a huge complex which sleeps over 400 people in multiple buildings, has playgrounds, cafeterias, and outdoor areas. Our group of 5 has our own room. It´s very institutional, but suits our purpose for entering Santiago. It was built for John Paul II´s visit.
We have been advised repeatedly that the best time to enter Santiago is in the early morning. The view is beautiful, we can see Santiago from our hilltop albergue, and there is less pilgrim congestion at the cathedral and other sites. We have a plan for when and what to see, but we will just see how that goes and how the camino provides. It feels surreal to be here and ready to complete our ... buen camino.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013
July 16
July 16
Arzua to Arca O Pino 19km
We sure took our time getting out of town. First we stopped at the cafe (cafes are also called bars) for coffee and ran into many pilgrims we knew as they passed the cafe and came in to say a quick buen camino. We were in kind of a festive mood knowing our day would be short and easy. Two hours later we were stopped at another cafe for a coke light and a little food - cheese, lunch meat, fruit. The camino was full of people as we mix with so many individuals who only hike the last 100km or take tour buses to this area and walk to a certain point where they are picked up again by the tour bus to go back to the city. Being our 31st day on the camino, we are not as fresh as some of these new pilgrims. And yet, they are pilgrims doing their camino just as we are doing ours. People were singing and being playful, truly joyous in these final days. Finally, we walked into Arca at 12:45pm and checked into our albergue where we had reservations. It is a strange feeling to be so close to being done.
Tomorrow's albergue is a municipal albergue with 400 beds, but is supposed to be very nice for 6 euros. Then Thursday we will walk the last 5km into Santiago.
So, this afternoon we finished our laundry, snacked on the left over food we´ve been caryring, and had fun visiting with other pilgrims. Everyone has their own idea about how they will finish their camino and arrivie in Santiago. The temperatures are still above normal for this part of the country, high 80's the last two days and tomorrow is supposed to be over 90F. Most of our way tomorrow is shaded except for the last climb to Monte del Gozo where the big albergue is. When we get to Santiago we will make our plans to go to Finisterre and Muxia on the coast. Finisterre is ''the end of the earth.'' It is a beautiful coastal area, and like most, very touristic. There is supposed to be great seafood, and we´ll take the chance to rest, relax, and soak our feet at the end of the earth. Until then, buen camino.
Arzua to Arca O Pino 19km
We sure took our time getting out of town. First we stopped at the cafe (cafes are also called bars) for coffee and ran into many pilgrims we knew as they passed the cafe and came in to say a quick buen camino. We were in kind of a festive mood knowing our day would be short and easy. Two hours later we were stopped at another cafe for a coke light and a little food - cheese, lunch meat, fruit. The camino was full of people as we mix with so many individuals who only hike the last 100km or take tour buses to this area and walk to a certain point where they are picked up again by the tour bus to go back to the city. Being our 31st day on the camino, we are not as fresh as some of these new pilgrims. And yet, they are pilgrims doing their camino just as we are doing ours. People were singing and being playful, truly joyous in these final days. Finally, we walked into Arca at 12:45pm and checked into our albergue where we had reservations. It is a strange feeling to be so close to being done.
Tomorrow's albergue is a municipal albergue with 400 beds, but is supposed to be very nice for 6 euros. Then Thursday we will walk the last 5km into Santiago.
So, this afternoon we finished our laundry, snacked on the left over food we´ve been caryring, and had fun visiting with other pilgrims. Everyone has their own idea about how they will finish their camino and arrivie in Santiago. The temperatures are still above normal for this part of the country, high 80's the last two days and tomorrow is supposed to be over 90F. Most of our way tomorrow is shaded except for the last climb to Monte del Gozo where the big albergue is. When we get to Santiago we will make our plans to go to Finisterre and Muxia on the coast. Finisterre is ''the end of the earth.'' It is a beautiful coastal area, and like most, very touristic. There is supposed to be great seafood, and we´ll take the chance to rest, relax, and soak our feet at the end of the earth. Until then, buen camino.
Monday, July 15, 2013
July 15
July 15
San Xulian to Arzua 25.4km
Again we woke to a very cool morning, great for hiking. We didn´t get away until 6:45 in the middle of a stream of pilgrims. Once you get within 100km of Santiago the number of pilgrims grows exponentially, because you can get your compostella just for completing the last 100km. This also puts pressure on the albergues which fill up very quickly or get in early. Instead, we have access to a phone from one of the pilgrims we are traveling with. Our little group is made up of Christine, Lisa, Andrew, Lorie and I. We´ve learned that you are able to make reservations at some albergues. This takes the worry out of whether we have a place to stay or not at the end of our day.
Today was a little longer than we wanted after the 28km day yesterday, but even though our feet hurt we were where we wanted to be as we plan our next few days before we reach Santiago. With all the people we saw today, most were new, but we still ran into many of the people we have been traveling with off and on for the past month. We always give out a big cheer and a hola when you see familiar faces. We were able to catch up on things with a girl named Monica from Czechslovakia who we lost track of for the last several days. Thats so common here on the camino. You visit awhile and then move on at your own pace or stop at a café and then you are on your own again until you run into someone else. After a month, you really do have quite a large camino family.
We are 25 miles away from Santiago. Here is our plan: Hike 19km tomorrow to Arco O Pino, then 15km to Monte del Gozo on Wednesday leaving us with 5km to Santiago on Thursday. This gets us into Santiago fresh in the morning on Thursday so we will be able to see the sites and complete our pilgrim business to complete our camino. Increíble!!! We can´t tell you the joy, and strong emotion that the pilgrims are experiencing at this point. It´s truly amazing. We all feel lifted up.
We had an unexpected pilgrim´s mass today, when a priest stepped out of a local parish and literally grabbed my hand, and then others, and dragged us into church. Our German friend Gunther sang a beautiful solo for us while we were there. It was worth the pause. (p.s. Gunther´s companion Haike is one of the highlights of the camino. She´s a hilarious storyteller and has a perpetual twinkle in her eye and perpetual joy. Today she said, ´´yesterday we met Jesus on the camino. We hike 5 extra km. to see a special church and when we got there it was closed. Along came the man in charge of opening it up, although it was two hours early, he opened and gave us a personal tour. As we were leaving he introduced us. He said, I am Jesus. That, of course, was his name, in Spanish.
As we hit town today we ran into a festival. There was a parade with the big papier mache figures and a bagpipe band. Galicia, as we´ve mentioned is celtic in heritage. It was fun to be part of the festival.
This is the last big town before Santiago. Wow! Buen Camino.
San Xulian to Arzua 25.4km
Again we woke to a very cool morning, great for hiking. We didn´t get away until 6:45 in the middle of a stream of pilgrims. Once you get within 100km of Santiago the number of pilgrims grows exponentially, because you can get your compostella just for completing the last 100km. This also puts pressure on the albergues which fill up very quickly or get in early. Instead, we have access to a phone from one of the pilgrims we are traveling with. Our little group is made up of Christine, Lisa, Andrew, Lorie and I. We´ve learned that you are able to make reservations at some albergues. This takes the worry out of whether we have a place to stay or not at the end of our day.
Today was a little longer than we wanted after the 28km day yesterday, but even though our feet hurt we were where we wanted to be as we plan our next few days before we reach Santiago. With all the people we saw today, most were new, but we still ran into many of the people we have been traveling with off and on for the past month. We always give out a big cheer and a hola when you see familiar faces. We were able to catch up on things with a girl named Monica from Czechslovakia who we lost track of for the last several days. Thats so common here on the camino. You visit awhile and then move on at your own pace or stop at a café and then you are on your own again until you run into someone else. After a month, you really do have quite a large camino family.
We are 25 miles away from Santiago. Here is our plan: Hike 19km tomorrow to Arco O Pino, then 15km to Monte del Gozo on Wednesday leaving us with 5km to Santiago on Thursday. This gets us into Santiago fresh in the morning on Thursday so we will be able to see the sites and complete our pilgrim business to complete our camino. Increíble!!! We can´t tell you the joy, and strong emotion that the pilgrims are experiencing at this point. It´s truly amazing. We all feel lifted up.
We had an unexpected pilgrim´s mass today, when a priest stepped out of a local parish and literally grabbed my hand, and then others, and dragged us into church. Our German friend Gunther sang a beautiful solo for us while we were there. It was worth the pause. (p.s. Gunther´s companion Haike is one of the highlights of the camino. She´s a hilarious storyteller and has a perpetual twinkle in her eye and perpetual joy. Today she said, ´´yesterday we met Jesus on the camino. We hike 5 extra km. to see a special church and when we got there it was closed. Along came the man in charge of opening it up, although it was two hours early, he opened and gave us a personal tour. As we were leaving he introduced us. He said, I am Jesus. That, of course, was his name, in Spanish.
As we hit town today we ran into a festival. There was a parade with the big papier mache figures and a bagpipe band. Galicia, as we´ve mentioned is celtic in heritage. It was fun to be part of the festival.
This is the last big town before Santiago. Wow! Buen Camino.
July 14
Portomarin to San Xulian 28.3km
This will be our last aggressive day gaining close to 30 kilometers as we get closer to Santiago. Today was made up of gently rolling hills gaining some elevation the first half of the hike, the second half was rolling hills with a descent to San Xulian. We went through many areas of shade and had at least some breeze, most of the day. We checked out many small churches as we went, stopping to ring the bell at one, the bell pull was hanging by the main entry. Maybe that wasn´t the best idea as two locals hollered out their windows for us to stop. We apologized and quickly left. It was almost 9a.m. and we were only going to ring it 9 times. No matter, it was fun.
Here in Galicia the weather has been a little cooler with very cool mornings which made hiking very pleasant. At one point today we came across several horses with riders, probably from a riding club. The horses were beautiful. The man said one was Arabian and the others Spanish. They all neighed the same to me. At the end of our day we found ourselves within 40 miles to Santiago. Wow! We´ve done over 450 miles so far. It´s hard to believe that we will be done in just a few days. You begin to wonder what you will do when you don´t have to get up at 5:30 to get ready to walk for the day.
As we came into our final town today there were many people standing around dressed up, so we guessed that noon mass had just gotten over, then we turned the corner past the church and ran into the priest and a group of people tying a statute to the top of a mini-van. I asked a local woman what was going on and she said it was a feast day for the blessing of cars by St. Christopher and they were going to have a procesional through town. The cars were decorated with flowers, balloons, etc. and parked doublé down the main streets. Well, we got to be part of it. They were driving crazy, honking horns, shouting, waving, and old Christopher was wobbling around town on top of a mini-van. We hollered and waved and clapped for them as we made our way through town. A great time was had by all.
We had a beautiful albergue with a mountain feel to it. There were only 8 pilgrims, and five of them were our walking group. It was just the five of us in our room, so we were thrilled. We could open windows, turn on/off lights as we pleased, and had our own bathroom. A wee bit of heaven.
Our windows were right on the camino, and just after we turned out the lights I heard a noise that sounded like horses, as I turned my head to look out a cow´s face was right in mine. She´d stuck her head in our window as the cows were being herded through town. We watched and had a really good laugh before falling to sleep. This morning I woke to a similar sound, but turned out to be the early morning pilgrims passing by. Believe it or not it was 4a.m. when a Costa Rican pilgrim family was going by with their lights and reflectors on, and pushing their sleeping baby in a stroller. Yes, I said in a stroller. We don´t know how they´ve done it, on so many levels, but especially how they get that stroller through some of the terrain we´ve covered!! When I saw them later today I mentioned that we´d seen them in the morn. The dad said, yes, it´s easier to travel when she is sleeping - no doubt!
For my Costa Rica kids, the first day I met them I said, Diay, Mae, que todo bien, pura vida. They lit up and have been especially friendly ever since. They are the only Costa Ricans we´ve met.
Pura Vida! and Buen Camino.
Portomarin to San Xulian 28.3km
This will be our last aggressive day gaining close to 30 kilometers as we get closer to Santiago. Today was made up of gently rolling hills gaining some elevation the first half of the hike, the second half was rolling hills with a descent to San Xulian. We went through many areas of shade and had at least some breeze, most of the day. We checked out many small churches as we went, stopping to ring the bell at one, the bell pull was hanging by the main entry. Maybe that wasn´t the best idea as two locals hollered out their windows for us to stop. We apologized and quickly left. It was almost 9a.m. and we were only going to ring it 9 times. No matter, it was fun.
Here in Galicia the weather has been a little cooler with very cool mornings which made hiking very pleasant. At one point today we came across several horses with riders, probably from a riding club. The horses were beautiful. The man said one was Arabian and the others Spanish. They all neighed the same to me. At the end of our day we found ourselves within 40 miles to Santiago. Wow! We´ve done over 450 miles so far. It´s hard to believe that we will be done in just a few days. You begin to wonder what you will do when you don´t have to get up at 5:30 to get ready to walk for the day.
As we came into our final town today there were many people standing around dressed up, so we guessed that noon mass had just gotten over, then we turned the corner past the church and ran into the priest and a group of people tying a statute to the top of a mini-van. I asked a local woman what was going on and she said it was a feast day for the blessing of cars by St. Christopher and they were going to have a procesional through town. The cars were decorated with flowers, balloons, etc. and parked doublé down the main streets. Well, we got to be part of it. They were driving crazy, honking horns, shouting, waving, and old Christopher was wobbling around town on top of a mini-van. We hollered and waved and clapped for them as we made our way through town. A great time was had by all.
We had a beautiful albergue with a mountain feel to it. There were only 8 pilgrims, and five of them were our walking group. It was just the five of us in our room, so we were thrilled. We could open windows, turn on/off lights as we pleased, and had our own bathroom. A wee bit of heaven.
Our windows were right on the camino, and just after we turned out the lights I heard a noise that sounded like horses, as I turned my head to look out a cow´s face was right in mine. She´d stuck her head in our window as the cows were being herded through town. We watched and had a really good laugh before falling to sleep. This morning I woke to a similar sound, but turned out to be the early morning pilgrims passing by. Believe it or not it was 4a.m. when a Costa Rican pilgrim family was going by with their lights and reflectors on, and pushing their sleeping baby in a stroller. Yes, I said in a stroller. We don´t know how they´ve done it, on so many levels, but especially how they get that stroller through some of the terrain we´ve covered!! When I saw them later today I mentioned that we´d seen them in the morn. The dad said, yes, it´s easier to travel when she is sleeping - no doubt!
For my Costa Rica kids, the first day I met them I said, Diay, Mae, que todo bien, pura vida. They lit up and have been especially friendly ever since. They are the only Costa Ricans we´ve met.
Pura Vida! and Buen Camino.
July 13
July 13
Barbadelo to Portomarin 18.2km
A very beautiful easy day! We were looking forward to an easy day after 3 days of mountains and extra kilometers. This morning we stopped at a really peaceful place with gardens, cherry trees, and great views. It even had palm trees and reminded us of Costa Rica. We enjoyed a cafe con leche and a rest knowing that we didn´t have to hurry along as it was a short hiking day. We hiked with two of our California teacher friends, Lisa and Christine, who always make things fun and make time fly. As we went down a long narrow rocky trail we came upon a couple herding their cattle up the trail toward us. The husband was behind a few cows and while he was concerned that we not use our trekking poles to smack the cows, he was friendly enough, however at the back of the herd was his wife, who was violently angry with us, calling us pigs among other names, and saying we should move further off the trail. When she noticed Lisa taking a video she really freaked out and said no pictures, pigs, no pictures, and came after Lisa with a sickle. We have a hilarious video of it, at the end all you can hear is Lisa screaming. It was actually very scarey, I was trying to think of what I could do to diffuse the situation, when the woman moved on. Oh, well, it gave us something to talk and laugh about for a few kilometers.
Before we knew it we were in Portomarin, a river city built on a reservoir. Because of the building of the reservoir in 1960 much of the city was moved to higher ground, including two churches which had to be moved stone by stone, and rebuilt. As we came into the city there were all kinds of kayaks, sailboats, etc. out on the reservoir-river. So we thought it would be fun to rent kayaks, however, turned out it was a private children´s school doing their lessons. Darn! Had a good pilgrim´s dinner, a nice clean albergue, and a special pilgrim´s mass. So, Mike likes to say, ¨no running on the camino¨, but apparently also no kayaking on the camino. Oh well, whichever way you´re traveling, buen camino.
Barbadelo to Portomarin 18.2km
A very beautiful easy day! We were looking forward to an easy day after 3 days of mountains and extra kilometers. This morning we stopped at a really peaceful place with gardens, cherry trees, and great views. It even had palm trees and reminded us of Costa Rica. We enjoyed a cafe con leche and a rest knowing that we didn´t have to hurry along as it was a short hiking day. We hiked with two of our California teacher friends, Lisa and Christine, who always make things fun and make time fly. As we went down a long narrow rocky trail we came upon a couple herding their cattle up the trail toward us. The husband was behind a few cows and while he was concerned that we not use our trekking poles to smack the cows, he was friendly enough, however at the back of the herd was his wife, who was violently angry with us, calling us pigs among other names, and saying we should move further off the trail. When she noticed Lisa taking a video she really freaked out and said no pictures, pigs, no pictures, and came after Lisa with a sickle. We have a hilarious video of it, at the end all you can hear is Lisa screaming. It was actually very scarey, I was trying to think of what I could do to diffuse the situation, when the woman moved on. Oh, well, it gave us something to talk and laugh about for a few kilometers.
Before we knew it we were in Portomarin, a river city built on a reservoir. Because of the building of the reservoir in 1960 much of the city was moved to higher ground, including two churches which had to be moved stone by stone, and rebuilt. As we came into the city there were all kinds of kayaks, sailboats, etc. out on the reservoir-river. So we thought it would be fun to rent kayaks, however, turned out it was a private children´s school doing their lessons. Darn! Had a good pilgrim´s dinner, a nice clean albergue, and a special pilgrim´s mass. So, Mike likes to say, ¨no running on the camino¨, but apparently also no kayaking on the camino. Oh well, whichever way you´re traveling, buen camino.
Friday, July 12, 2013
July 12
Tiacastela to Barbadelo 24.3km
It was dark as we left our albergue at 6:30 and headed up a valley road a bit slowly as we warmed up our muscles. We came upon a little prayer house 2km into today´s hike. We all felt at home and at peace. It was very difficult to leave and move on. It was a very small ancient stone house with welcoming music, including the owner playing his guitar and singing Amazing Grace. He offered tea, coffee, lavender sachets for restful sleep, a warm welcome and a gentle prayer for all who entered. We were so glad to have noticed it and experienced its peacefullness.
Again, we climbed and climbed until we came out on top of the mountain where we could look down into the valleys full of fog. We walked along the mountain top for an hour or so until the trail headed down towards the valley bottoms. We were walking in the fog listening to the condensation dripping off the trees all around us. The valley paths were mystical/enchanted with diffused sunlight trying to burn off the fog. We came across a cattle herd and shepherd. We walked amid the cows awhile and then had to yield as they made their way to a lower pasture.
We passed through several pueblos, but our only town of any size today was Sarria. We visited a farmacia, a sporting goods store, a small church, and a monastery with a beautiful cloister. We had to climb a set of stairs that lasted FOREVER, tough on peregrino knees, but once again hit a beautiful humid forest. However, it led to another climb! A doozie at the end of the day!!
From now on it will be much more crowded as many many pilgrims begin their pilgrimage in Sarria. You must do the last 100 miles in order to earn your Compostela (certificate of completion of the pilgrimage). From today on you must get two stamps each day on your pilgrim passport as evidence of your trek. So it begins to get more crowded and less safe. So, please pray for safe passage and a good bed-albergue each night. And, buen camino.
Tiacastela to Barbadelo 24.3km
It was dark as we left our albergue at 6:30 and headed up a valley road a bit slowly as we warmed up our muscles. We came upon a little prayer house 2km into today´s hike. We all felt at home and at peace. It was very difficult to leave and move on. It was a very small ancient stone house with welcoming music, including the owner playing his guitar and singing Amazing Grace. He offered tea, coffee, lavender sachets for restful sleep, a warm welcome and a gentle prayer for all who entered. We were so glad to have noticed it and experienced its peacefullness.
Again, we climbed and climbed until we came out on top of the mountain where we could look down into the valleys full of fog. We walked along the mountain top for an hour or so until the trail headed down towards the valley bottoms. We were walking in the fog listening to the condensation dripping off the trees all around us. The valley paths were mystical/enchanted with diffused sunlight trying to burn off the fog. We came across a cattle herd and shepherd. We walked amid the cows awhile and then had to yield as they made their way to a lower pasture.
We passed through several pueblos, but our only town of any size today was Sarria. We visited a farmacia, a sporting goods store, a small church, and a monastery with a beautiful cloister. We had to climb a set of stairs that lasted FOREVER, tough on peregrino knees, but once again hit a beautiful humid forest. However, it led to another climb! A doozie at the end of the day!!
From now on it will be much more crowded as many many pilgrims begin their pilgrimage in Sarria. You must do the last 100 miles in order to earn your Compostela (certificate of completion of the pilgrimage). From today on you must get two stamps each day on your pilgrim passport as evidence of your trek. So it begins to get more crowded and less safe. So, please pray for safe passage and a good bed-albergue each night. And, buen camino.
July 11
La Faba to Triacastela 27.4km
From La Baba we had to finish our climb to the top where we reached the highest point on the camino at 1330 meters. Along the way we crossed into Galicia the last region of Spain, and the one with the longest history, having been settled by the Celts. Here you can see blue eyed blondes, green-eyed redheads, and hear the bagpipes. You can also see the oldest church on the camino and walls built during the crusades. It is a dairy farming region as witnessed by the smells and manure on the roads. (Daddy!!!!! - Brylee)
The hike was absolutely beautiful. The views provided numerous photo opportunities. The real challenge for today was to hike down the mountains in 5km what it took the last day and a half to climb. We´ve become very good climbers, but will always tred the downhill with caution.
In Galicia, again the language changes somewhat. Here, like in some parts of the southwestern U.S. the j is spelled with x instead, like Tejas-Texas, Mexico-Mejico, etc. So the word caja here is caixa. But the Spanish is very easy to understand and a slower pace than the previous province. The galicians or gallegos have their own language, Gallego, which is distinct from Spanish. They prefer that for their personal conversation. But still they say... buen camino.
La Faba to Triacastela 27.4km
From La Baba we had to finish our climb to the top where we reached the highest point on the camino at 1330 meters. Along the way we crossed into Galicia the last region of Spain, and the one with the longest history, having been settled by the Celts. Here you can see blue eyed blondes, green-eyed redheads, and hear the bagpipes. You can also see the oldest church on the camino and walls built during the crusades. It is a dairy farming region as witnessed by the smells and manure on the roads. (Daddy!!!!! - Brylee)
The hike was absolutely beautiful. The views provided numerous photo opportunities. The real challenge for today was to hike down the mountains in 5km what it took the last day and a half to climb. We´ve become very good climbers, but will always tred the downhill with caution.
In Galicia, again the language changes somewhat. Here, like in some parts of the southwestern U.S. the j is spelled with x instead, like Tejas-Texas, Mexico-Mejico, etc. So the word caja here is caixa. But the Spanish is very easy to understand and a slower pace than the previous province. The galicians or gallegos have their own language, Gallego, which is distinct from Spanish. They prefer that for their personal conversation. But still they say... buen camino.
July 10
Villafranca del Beirzo to LaFaba 27.2km
By the end of today we will have less than 100 miles to go to Santiago. There are still some challenges ahead, called mountains, and today we have quite a climb. The first 2/3 of our hike is a gentle ascent, but the last 1/3 is very steep.
The paths were made up of asphalt, gravel roads, dirt paths, rocky paths, and the steep uphill mostly rocky loose stone paths. Our feet got a real tough workout today. The views however, were spectacular which more than made up for the strenuous climb. During the climb we met a man raking hay with a forked stick. He wanted to put us to work, but raking hay with a backpack on your back just wasn´t going to happen. Lorie and he had a great discussion comparing how hay is raked on a mountain side in Spain and how we rake hay in the West Salem area using machinery.
Some of the animals we´ve seen have been deer, mink, lots of birds, lizards, frogs, snail and slugs, and of course lots of domestic animals such as cows, horses, chickens, dogs and cats, sheep, and goats. Mostly country and farms with the few hamlets mixed in today.
We were having an extremely difficult and HOT climb when we came to our albergue at La Faba. It is currently our favorite albergue. It was beautiful, shady, peaceful, charming, especially clean and had a very spiritual air to it. There is actually a church on the property which was beautiful. Several of us practiced yoga in the courtyard while we waited for the alb. to open. A german CIA agent challenged Lorie to a push-up contest. She had to do 10 to his 20. It was a tie. He´s a really fun and very fit guy, (we´re talking he works out in a little black speedo every afternoon). We enjoy him and his beautiful girlfriend, Haika, very much.
That night the service was led by a franciscan priest or brother, we´re not sure. He emanated love and peace. He asked some tough questions for us to consider. One was, what is the sign of a christian. We all said the cross/crucifix. We were wrong. It was love. He said to often we use the crucifix to crucify others, and that the symbol of a christian is love. That if we each do our part, and remember to take what we learned along the camino with us into life, that together we (that means you too) can creat the world that Christ wants us to create. Anyway, there was much, much more to his message and the service. And then he began to wash our feet. I cried. I don´t think anyone has washed my feet since my mom. It was such a service of love, (believe me to wash our beat up pilgrim feet is a real sign of love.) We were all very moved by the love. After the service I thanked him and he grabbed my face in his hands and kissed both my cheeks in the Spanish way. La Faba is truly a spiritual place.
It was a fantastically restful, peaceful place to end a very tough day. Buen Camino.
Villafranca del Beirzo to LaFaba 27.2km
By the end of today we will have less than 100 miles to go to Santiago. There are still some challenges ahead, called mountains, and today we have quite a climb. The first 2/3 of our hike is a gentle ascent, but the last 1/3 is very steep.
The paths were made up of asphalt, gravel roads, dirt paths, rocky paths, and the steep uphill mostly rocky loose stone paths. Our feet got a real tough workout today. The views however, were spectacular which more than made up for the strenuous climb. During the climb we met a man raking hay with a forked stick. He wanted to put us to work, but raking hay with a backpack on your back just wasn´t going to happen. Lorie and he had a great discussion comparing how hay is raked on a mountain side in Spain and how we rake hay in the West Salem area using machinery.
Some of the animals we´ve seen have been deer, mink, lots of birds, lizards, frogs, snail and slugs, and of course lots of domestic animals such as cows, horses, chickens, dogs and cats, sheep, and goats. Mostly country and farms with the few hamlets mixed in today.
We were having an extremely difficult and HOT climb when we came to our albergue at La Faba. It is currently our favorite albergue. It was beautiful, shady, peaceful, charming, especially clean and had a very spiritual air to it. There is actually a church on the property which was beautiful. Several of us practiced yoga in the courtyard while we waited for the alb. to open. A german CIA agent challenged Lorie to a push-up contest. She had to do 10 to his 20. It was a tie. He´s a really fun and very fit guy, (we´re talking he works out in a little black speedo every afternoon). We enjoy him and his beautiful girlfriend, Haika, very much.
That night the service was led by a franciscan priest or brother, we´re not sure. He emanated love and peace. He asked some tough questions for us to consider. One was, what is the sign of a christian. We all said the cross/crucifix. We were wrong. It was love. He said to often we use the crucifix to crucify others, and that the symbol of a christian is love. That if we each do our part, and remember to take what we learned along the camino with us into life, that together we (that means you too) can creat the world that Christ wants us to create. Anyway, there was much, much more to his message and the service. And then he began to wash our feet. I cried. I don´t think anyone has washed my feet since my mom. It was such a service of love, (believe me to wash our beat up pilgrim feet is a real sign of love.) We were all very moved by the love. After the service I thanked him and he grabbed my face in his hands and kissed both my cheeks in the Spanish way. La Faba is truly a spiritual place.
It was a fantastically restful, peaceful place to end a very tough day. Buen Camino.
Tuesday, July 9, 2013
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